Lutterloh: Supplement 115 # 75 – Peacoat


lutterloh peacoat



peacoat facing and lining



daisy with peacoat

Daisy’s peacoat – Lutterloh pattern no. 75 – supplement no. 175


Pattern Description:?
A pretty blazer in naval style.

Pattern Sizing:
Lutterloh patterns are drafted by the user based on their own measurements.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?
There are no individual pattern instructions for Lutterloh patterns. You use your own discretion on construction. There are several texts available to give more thorough, but still basic instructions based on garment type.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Aside from the fact that Lutterloh patterns allow a person to pick their own seam allowance, and start out with a pattern that’s drafted specifically for their own size, this pattern is a classic. I have a pea coat that was issued to me in the Navy that is really warm. It is, however, a tent, so I wanted something warm like my peacoat, but fitted like the RTW ones around. This vintage pattern is exactly what I’ve been looking for.

Fabric Used:
Melton wool (55% wool, 45% polyester) for shell
Embroidered polyester for the lining
Unidentified velour type fabric from my Grandma’s stash for interlining

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The pattern drafted to fit my frame perfectly so the only change I made was moving the bust dart into the princess seam. I also added tabs on the front princess seams to attach the pockets I drafted for it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. I discovered Lutterloh while helping clean out my Grandma’s sewing room this fall. This is the first garment I have made with the set she gave me. So far I’m really impressed. I have already drafted PJ pants for ds and a dress for dd. The pieces all fit together really well, and the patterns fits me without having to use different sizes for different body parts. (Technically you do use different sizes, but that’s done in the drafting and it’s much simpler than adjusting an already drafted pattern)

On some level I have to wonder how the big 4 stay in business when there is Lutterloh. I know, of course, that it’s not for everyone. For me it has been a revelation. I have over 800 patterns in a 6″x6″ space on a shelf, and those patterns fit nearly everyone. Sewing for my kids no longer entails a tedious trip to the fabric store. (It’s only tedious when I have the kids along. They “squirrel” on me every ten seconds when I take them to JA.) We can sit in a chair, look through the book, and they can pick whatever they want out. I don’t have to hope that the pattern comes in their size. If they want me to make the garment again in two years, I don’t have to go buy a new pattern in a bigger size, I just redraft it to the new size. I don’t work for Lutterloh, I’m just so inspired by it that I feel the need to let everyone know. :D

Flashy colors for a Lutterloh dress

There?s 2 months ago, it was my Engagement?s day.

5 dresses for Just 1.

I?ve tested a lot of fabric, style, and models, and always I was disappointed because I thought it was not the real One.

And now I?ve 2 dresses in my closet which are waiting to go out?

This one is flashy one !

Italian fabric and a lot of colors.



Lutterloh dress


I?ve sewed a scarf to wear if the weather is more cold…


Lutterloh dress flashy colors


I?m waiting now for summer time to enjoy it !!!


Courtesy ?of:?


Uh-Oh Lutterloh


I resisted the impulse to edit my pics to make my waist look as small as the illustration or to make the illustration look as realistic as me.


So without more ado here is my Lutterloh 1949 make:


lutterloh-dress2? ? ? ? ??lutterloh-dress1


Lutterloh was started in Germany, 1935, and is still going strong today. It’s similar-ish contemporaries were a French system called Eclair Coupe Paris and The Haslam system which I think was American. This is a?YouTube video?of the Man From Lutterloh demonstrating with a simple waistcoat how it all works (14 minutes long if you have the patience). I find the principle totally intriguing and would love to distribute my own patterns in this miniaturised way but I?m quite sure the method is copyrighted up to the hilt so will be sticking with the old multi-page cut n tape pdfs for now.


Courtesy of


Susan Connects the Dots and makes Well – Fitting Clothes


It is really that easy! Using the Lutterloh pattern making system is literally connecting the dots. Here is an outfit I completed last week:


Lutterloh purple chair? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ??Lutterloh purple 2


Instead of trying to adjust a Vogue, McCall’s, Butterick or Simplicity (the Big Four) pattern to fit your body. Lutterloh patterns are based on just two measurements:

1. your bust

2. your hip


They call it the?Golden Rule??I call it “Getting My Garment Sewing Mojo Back.”


In years past I sewed most of my clothing,and my daughter’s. I made bathing suits, lingerie, nightgowns, blazers, pants and skirts all using ?Lutterloh. ?And they all fit. And I did not need to have lots of patterns in two sizes, mine and my daughter’s.
The beauty of the Lutterloh system is that each pattern is usable for many sizes.
I lost the system in my move down here to La Paz. I went back to the Big Four patterns.
In years past I sewed most of my ?clothing, and my daughter’s. I made bathing suits, lingerie, nightgowns, blazers, pants and skirts all using Lutterloh. And they all fit. And I did not need to have lots of patterns in two sizes, mine and my daughter’s.

I started to feel like a misshapen freak!

Nothing fit well. I lost confidence in my ability to sew.


The Big Four prices got higher and the quality ?went down. For years I have been unable to get a good fit, I have gained weight and I am short. Trying to ?find patterns that looked good and would not need lots of changes was near impossible.

In a few posts back, I showed off my?5 piece mini wardrobe?I made entirely from Lutterloh patterns for a Pattern Review contest. I had not used the system in 20 years. I was able to get started again and made those five items plus?4 more, with more on my cutting table waiting to be made.

Now I feel like I can sew anything again!

Here are the tools you need to make a basic vest or any? of the patterns


Lutterloh composite tools

Your Tools:

Velum paper, or any wide paper, Special Tape measure, a piece of foam to stick push pin in, tape to hold the pattern in place, A pencil, a seam gauge for adding seam allowance. A design from the collection.The miniature pattern and tailor’s curve.

Here I am connecting the dots and making a basic vest:


lutterloh connecting the dots


I fold the page so I isolate the pattern piece I want. I insert the pin in a hole near my bust measurement in cm. I swing the tape along a line radiating from the dot. The dot is numbered. I draw a dot on the paper? that corresponds to the number on the pattern and my tape. Dots above the waist use the bust measurement, dots below the waist use the hip measurement.


Lutterloh drafted vest composite
The left image shows all of the dots. You can see the shape of the full-sized vest. The right image shows the dots connected and the seam allowance added. You can see my drafting does not look like an engineer’s. But the pattern fits!
Lutterloh finished vest composite
Here I am in the muslin. It needs a little tweaking at the shoulders. And here is the finished vest. The sun was so bright I had to close my eyes!
This is not a sales pitch paid for by the company. I am just so happy to be able to make clothing I like and that looks good.

All of the pattern pieces are interchangeable. Like the sleeve from this blouse? Or the hem treatment from those pants. Just draft them along with the other patterns pieces you need to complete your look.
After doing some “snoop shopping” on luxury resort wear sites, I have come up with some ideas for my cooler weather wardrobe. Then I compare the silhouettes in my Lutterloh binder to see if I can re-create the look.


Over 200 patterns come in the basic binder, and then supplements are available every quarter. So the latest? trend is at your finger tips. Each supplement has 40 new patterns, and a supplement costs less than one Vogue pattern.


Courtesy of Susan Fogel


Pattern Review – Lutterloh Shift Dress and McCalls 5106


Catherine's lutterloh shift dress (4)? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Lutterloh #03


Finally, we have our very first pattern review on one of the dress styles from the Lutterloh pattern classes we held at our stores last month. Catherine has made up this classic stylish shift dress (Lutt. patt #03) in our beautiful Japanese 100% cotton weave ‘Osaka Orange’ – there were only slight tweeks Catherine needed to make to the pattern after her initial fitting, like taking in a bit more on the side seams at the hip to hem and pinching out a bit of extra gape at the neckline. I know Catherine was very pleased with the end result…


Catherine's shift dress? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Catherine's shift dress (3)


and looked fabulous when she wore this into our Chatswood store a couple of weekends ago – she paired the dress back with a great pair of peep-toe flats in the perfect burnt-orange and navy and this little bolero jacket – modified from?McCalls pattern 5106. Obviously omitting the collar and shortening the sleeves, and body to sit just on the waist. So chic!


McCalls M5106

Courtesy of